Vijaywada, stuck away 90 kilometres from the coast in the midst of granite outcroppings at the mouth the river Krishna, is like many other mid-size Indian cities: lots of business, a sprinkling of temples and decent city-getaways. Vijaywada’s city-getaway, as ‘city getaways’ go, is special. 30 kilometres from the city is the village of Amravati. Amravati used to have a stupa with relics of the Buddha, which was larger than the famous Sanchi stupa. Though the stupa is no longer intact, the remnants on the site give you a good clue as to how marvellous the structure was. The fence around the mound originally had 4 gates facing the 4 cardinal points. One has been restored and on it one can see typical carvings tracing the journey of Gautam from Siddhartha to Buddha, the Enlightened One. The museum at Amravati houses a collection of Buddhist art and sculptures, which were excavated from the ruins. It’s obviously a valuable collection – the best pieces are on display at the British Museum in London.

Vijaywada has two other temples of note. One is the centuries old Kanaka Durga Temple on Indrakila Hill and the other, 3 kilometres outside town in Undavalli, is a typical Pallava temple fashioned out of a granite hill.

Getting There and Around: Vijaywada has an airport which has ceased to function. The closest airport now would be at Hyderabad, which is almost 5 hrs away by road. There are trains from Vijaywada to all parts of the country including Delhi. Vijaywada is on the Calcutta-Chennai coastal line. It is connected by rail to Kerala, Tamil Nadu, Orissa and Karnataka. From Delhi the journey would be comfortable but almost three days long. So unless you are a somewhat seasoned Indian Railway user it may be advisable to try another route.

Vijaywada has a huge bus station with very well organized, efficient and frequent bus connections to other places in the region. These may not be the last word in comfort but for that you’ll have to hire cab and cabbie. Using public transport in this area is well, a challenge for your reserves of patience. The bus system fits in perfectly with the scenery of the area it services: slow breezes matched by slow ‘motion’! If you appreciate of average 45kmph speed, hire a cab or rent a car at Vijaywada.

Accommodation: Top of the line accommodation is not an option in Vijaywada. 5-star hotel chains are yet to set up shop here. But there are clean mid-rung and budget dormitory establishments with air-conditioning, TV, and attached bathrooms. The dining and entertainment scene is nothing to write home about but wholesome south Indian vegetarian food is aplenty. Entertainment begins and ends with the ‘river cruise’: you can spend a fraction of an hour idling in a bobbing boat on the Krishna. There are very few snacks stalls in Amravati and no lodges/hotels at all.

For detailed state and visitor information, see Andhra Pradesh.