| North of Leh across the
Khardung La (pass) at 5,578 metres along the highest motorable road in the world is the Nubra
Valley. Fed by the Nubra and Shyok Rivers, the valley was once thought to be under a
huge glacier. What remains left today are stretches of sand dunes and stark boulder-strewn
plains that look almost extra-terrestrial. Bound by the Karakoram Range in the north and
east, this land was once traversed by traders from China with camel caravans. The Nubra
valley opened to tourists only in 1994 and is still virgin territory for travellers. The climate of Nubra is comparatively gentle and allows for
growing crops, fruits and nuts, thus getting the name Ldumra or orchard. A vital link to
the snow bound battlefield of the Siachen Glacier, the road from Leh into Nubra
valley is kept open throughout the year. But travelling can be extremely tiring over
treacherous terrain and long bumpy stretches. The road from Leh up to Khardung La requires
steel nerves, and once you reach the top of the pass you are greeted with congratulatory
cups of tea. The rareified atmosphere makes breathing and moving about difficult, while
the descent is far less treacherous. Buses ply from Leh to the main town of Panamic
covering a distance of about 140 kms. You can either return the next day or take a
three-day round trip covering Panamic, Diskit and a few of the major monasteries in the
valley.
Beyond Khalsar, after crossing the confluence of
the Shyok and Nubra rivers, you reach Sumur, with the Samstem Ling Gompa. Built in
1841, this Gelugpa (Yellow Hats) monastery houses over a hundred monks. A large statue of
Buddha, flanked by Maitreya and Mahakala dominates the Du-khang. Some basic accommodation
is available at Sumur, mostly owned by locals who also provide food. Regular buses connect
Sumur with Leh, Panamic and Diskit.
A two-hour ride beyond Sumur takes you to Panamic,
best known for its hot sulphur springs. Traditional two-storey houses and prayer wheels
are alternated with short scrubby vegetation leading down to agricultural fields next to
the Nubra. A refreshing bath in the tubs at the hot springs does a lot for a travel weary
body, with enough time left to explore the gompa across the river. Though the monastery is
not in regular use, you can chance upon one of the monks who will show you what is
believed to be the footprint of Tsong-kha-pa. Panamic is the northern-most town up to
which travellers are allowed within India.
Turning westward along the Shyok River, you reach a
vast expanse of sandy desert and boulder-filled landscape. The town of Diskit,
tucked away along the mountainside is towered by the Karakoram and Ladakh Ranges. The old
town with a gompa built in 1420 can be interesting diversions for travellers. Curious
tales of a Mongol demon who was slain near the monastery are recounted when you enter the
dark precincts. 7 kms north is the small village of Hundur, nestling within a forested
patch. This is the farthest point to the west of Leh for visitors. Guesthouses and camps
are available at Diskit, simple but quite adequate with food included in the charges. Hundur
has limited options, and can be covered from Diskit. Buses return to Leh from Diskit,
taking about six hours for the journey. Diskit is also connected to by a bi-weekly bus
service to Sumur and Panamic.
For detailed state and visitor information, see Ladakh. |