The Kinner-Kailash range is silhouetted against the lovely town of Kalpa, the ancient capital of the Kinners of Kinnaur. Kalpa was the headquarters of the Kinnaur region till the town of Rekong Peo donned the mantle.

In ancient Hindu mythology, the Kinners were birdlike men akin to Gods - midway between man and God. Kinnaur is a land like no other, a realm as strikingly varied as the landscape you will encounter on the way.

Much of the excitement of visiting Kalpa lies in the adventurous journey to get here. The scenery changes dramatically from gorgeous valleys, green orchards and forests of cedar, chilgoza-pine and bhojpatra trees, to the starkness of the mountains, high altitude deserts and stunning gorges. The rugged mountains rise up dramatically from the riverbanks. The Sutlej carves a deep chasm through the Great Himalayas as it rages through Kinnaur, to meet the quiet Baspa at Karcham. This is one of the most breathtakingly vertiginous drives you will face. The road is literally carved through the rock face with a sheer drop down to the turbulent Sutlej.

Once you reach the town of Kalpa, you are rewarded by the most fantastic views of the Kinner-Kailash, of the 70 m Shivling that juts out of the peak and the striking sunrises and sunsets that light up the mountains.

Besides the fantastic scenery and drives, set aside some energetic moments for mountain-biking, mountain-cycling, jeep safaris, trout fishing in the Baspa, star-gazing, camping, hiking, trekking and river rafting adventures. Privately organized adventure camps are mushrooming around Kinnaur’s valleys, to cater to the audacious.

The villages nearby are abuzz with friendly folk who won’t let you pass their homes without an invitation for a cup of tea and a chat. Hindu temples, Buddhist monasteries and gompas stick out like Christmas decorations on the mountain slopes. The architectural style is a happy fusion and you are left marveling at how two cultures, Hindu and Buddhist, blend harmoniously in this land, making it impossible to tell where one stops and the other begins.

Getting there: Kalpa is 616 km from Delhi and 250 km from Shimla. The best way to get here is to first reach Shimla - by road, or train (till Kalka), or air (Chandigarh is the closest airport) - and then travel to Kalpa by road. From Shimla, taxis or jeeps can be hired and a bus service is available for Rekong Peo, 14 km from Kalpa, a journey of about 11 hours. This is a demanding drive and rugged vehicles are suggested. Direct buses are also available from Delhi to Rekong Peo. If driving in from Delhi, it’s convenient to break journey at Shimla or Narkanda. The route you will take is Delhi-Chandigarh-Shimla-Narkanda-Rampur-Karcham-Powari-Rekong Peo-Kalpa on NH22.

Best time: The months of April till October are delightful in Kalpa. Avoid travelling here during the monsoons because the roads en route are bad and prone to landslides. The climate is cool but variable, so carry warm clothes and rain protection. It snows heavily in winter and there is a possibility of avalanches.

Accommodation: You have the option of staying in luxury at the Circuit House (with permits) or in Himachal tourism camps and privately organized deluxe tents. A few cottages, hotels and the odd farmhouse are also available.

For more country information, see India.
For detailed state information, see Himachal Pradesh.