Chidambaram is a
small town but is the highlight of the temple circuit because of its famous shrine to the
Dancing Destroyer. No, not some WWF hulk but the Nataraja, which is the form of the Hindu
god Shiva, as he performs the devastating dance of death. Part of the divine trinity that
otherwise includes Brahma the Creator and Vishnu the Preserver, it is Lord Shiva on whom
is enjoined the task of Apocalypse.
Chidambaram is an important destination for followers of the Hindu god
Shiva and exponent of the fearsome, frenzied Tandav Nritya or the dance of
destruction. At the centre of the town is the large Natraj Temple complex
dedicated to Shiva as the divine dancer or Natraj, the foremost of all dancers. Spread out
over 40 acres this complex, dedicated to the god who is usually represented by the phallic
symbol, houses other temples, a tank, and the 'thousand pillared hall’. Non-Hindus
are allowed into the complex but not the gold plated sanctum sanctorum that houses the
idol. The Natyanjali Dance Festival is held on the temple grounds in February with
performances by eminent dancers. There is a 13th century Kali Temple on the
outskirts of the town.
50 km from Chidambaram is Gangaikondas Cholapuram, at one
time the capital of the Chola kingdom. It has a Shiva temple that is noted for its
hugeness and the rich carvings on the walls of demi-gods in dancing positions. A huge
Nandi bull guards the entrance, and there is a lion-head step well in the complex.
Pichavaram, 16km east of Chidambaram, has a huge mangrove
forest. There’s a range of sports for the taking like canoeing, rowing and
parasailing. The huge sandbar that keeps the sea out can be reached by boat. TTDC provides
boating facilities, lodging, and a restaurant for those who’d rather not carry a
picnic hamper.
Annamalai University in Chidambaram is one of the most
important in India.
The Kalvarayan Hills are 150 km away and reach up to
1190mts. They make for an ideal quiet get-away with easy trekking, time by waterfalls, and
walks in the botanical gardens. There is a summer festival on in May.
Ruins of a 17th century Danish fort, an old
Collector’s House, a temple built in 1305, a 300 year old church
and a 200 year old town gate mean Tranquebar, or Tarangambadi, is tangibly
steeped in history.
There is also a 700-year-old fort that changed hands several times 132 km
away at Genji (Gingee).
Once the biggest port on the east coast, Poompuhar (40
km. away) is still a grand town because of its scenic beauty. It’s where the Cauvery
River merges with the raging waters of the Bay of Bengal.
Visitor Information
The best time to visit is in February, during Mahashivratri for the Natyanjali
Dance Festival that is dedicated to the tandav Shiva Nataraj. It attracts the
finest classical dancers who perform in the `prakara’ in the temple grounds.
Otherwise a day’s visit anytime from Jan. to March should be enough for the sights
and sounds. Carry light cotton clothes and a pair of sandals, as it is warm through out
the year.
Getting there: You can get to Chidambaram by train. It
stands on the Chennai-Trichy meter-gauge line and is also connected by rail to the temple
towns of Rameswaram, Thanjavur, and Kumbakonam. Chidambaram is connected to all the major
towns of Tamil Nadu by a very good network of roads and a bus service to match. And from
Pondicherry, which is only 80 km away, you could cycle down on a biking trip.
Chidambaram is one of those small towns where everything of relevance is
within walking distance. It is possible to hire bicycles from the local rental shop on
South Car Street and cycle rickshaws abound. It isn’t possible to rent a car locally
(for the city getaways) so you may consider driving in your own, or retaining your rented
car if you plan to drive-in in one. Besides sightseeing, visit Khadi Craft for curios, and
a line of shops in the vicinity of the Temple for reproductions of the Natraj inside,
which is only for Hindu eyes.
Most accommodation here is basic: shared baths,
dorm-type, non air-conditioned, but clean and welcoming, though some hotels have
air-conditioned rooms too. There are no luxury hotels. Food ? The variety on offer is not
too eclectic but there is a multi-cuisine restaurant in town. Most places serve south
Indian vegetarian and non-vegetarian, and some even have chilled beer on the menu.
The best time to visit is in February, during Mahashivratri in time for
the Natyanjali Dance Festival that is dedicated to Shiva Nataraj. It attracts the finest
classical dancers who perform in the `prakara' in the temple grounds. Otherwise a day's
visit anytime from January to March should be enough for the sights and sounds.
Govt. of Tamil Nadu Tourist Office,
Poompuhar.
Ph. No. 04364 - 60439.
Govt. Tourist Office, Railway Feeder Road,
Chidambaran.
Ph. No. 04144 - 22739
