A strange and magical place, Hampi is one of the most beautiful towns in Karnataka. Huge boulders are scattered across the land where ruins of the old Vijayanagar capital stand, poignant reminders of the passage of history.

This windswept little village was once the centre of a vibrant, thriving culture that enriched the entire region with carved temples and rock-cut magnificence.

The brothers Harihara and Bukka established the Vijayanagar Empire in 1336. In an age when the powerful Mughal army of the north was stamping its authority on almost the entire subcontinent, this southern Hindu kingdom proved too difficult to crack. In 1509-29 during the reign of Krishnadevaraya the empire reached the pinnacle of its influence economically, militarily and culturally, the legacy of which abides till date.

In 1565 the end came swiftly. Unable to withstand the combined assault of the neighbouring Muslim kingdoms, Hampi fell at the battle of Talikota. From then it was only a matter of time before the conquering forces made rapid inroads into the rest of the empire. The ruins of Hampi are extremely popular with tourists who flock here to soak in a sense of the past; and in every ‘reliving’, this seemingly dead city lives again.

Hampi Bazaar has almost returned to former glory with the old buildings being functional again. Traders once more ply their wares but now its mostly branded, packaged, with ‘sales tax extra’! This area has a charm of its own and much of it has to do with the fascinating phenomenon of renaissance. Sule Bazaar, just a little way off, is an ancient market that did not regain its life like the main bazaar. Lovely old buildings stand silently and perhaps one day here too it won’t be quiet. The Virupaksha Temple dedicated to an incarnation of Lord Shiva stands at the western end of the market just as it had 600 years ago. The main tower is over 50 meters tall.

The Vittalla Temple at the eastern end of the bazaar is the undisputed best-structure in Hampi. This superbly sculptured temple was begun in 1509 during the reign of the greatest Vijaynagar king, Krishnadevaraya. Now a World Heritage Site, this temple, which was never completed or consecrated, encompasses the best of Vijaynagar temple building. At the entrance is lavishly carved stone chariot with an image of the mythological bird Garuda.  The pillars of the hall are musical, if struck they’ll sound a definite musical note. Near Sule Bazaar is another ancient temple called the Achyutaraya Temple. Beautifully sculptured, it too has a strange aura that evokes a sense of the past.

And then there are the ruined remains of the grand palace complex from where at one time royal decrees must have issued forth commanding respect and obedience from the subjects. The Royal Centre is one of the most hauntingly fine structures in Hampi. The Lotus Mahal and the Elephant Astabal (Stables) lie inside the Zenana Enclosure. These were private quarters that held the royal womenfolk away from prying eyes. All the buildings are an exotic mix of Hindu and Islamic styles and the result is high vaulted domes and striking carvings. The Royal Enclosure has an array of temples and houses the old waterworks. Across the Tungabhadra, in Anegondi, is another complex of ruins that has many small temples.

The Archaeological Museum (Kamalapuram) has models of the ground plan of the ancient town and some excavated sculptures. You must visit it for a really complete picture of Hampi, present and past.

Getting There:The nearest railway station is at Hospet. There are trains to Hospet from Bangalore and Hyderabad. You can get to Hampi from Hospet by auto-rickshaw, bus or rented cycle. It is possible to rent a chauffeur driven car in Hospet. It is convenient to get directly to Hampi by road. Goa is 10 hrs away and there are bus services from all over Karnataka to Hampi. Since this is a major tourist destination, any number of car-rentals will be happy to provide you with a car and driver for the trip. You can hire the car and take it around the entire northern circuit of Hampi-Hospet-Badami-Gulbarga-Bidar-Bijapur. It is also possible to hire a car at Hampi.

There are frequent bus services to Hospet (30 minutes) and from there on to Badami, Bijapur, Aihole, Gulbarga, and to the south too. You can also rent a car for the trip. There are trains from Hospet to Bangalore, Secunderabad (Andhra Pradesh), and Belur-Halebid. There is also a train to Badami.

Getting Around: The best time to visit is October. This is festival season when the entire country celebrates the victory of Ram over Ravana, good over evil, as told in the epic Ramayana. The weather is cool and a gentle breeze sweeps the countryside.

The ruins of Hampi are fairly spread out so it is wise to rent a cycle for getting around locally. However, be prepared to do some bits on foot because in places the dirt track is not negotiable even on cycle. Auto-rickshaws and taxis are also available but not really conducive to a detailed exploration. Take along sturdy footwear if you are planning to do the ruins on foot.

Accommodation: Most hotels are in Hampi Bazaar. This may not be the quietest area but it is very charming and popular with tourists because of its central location. Accommodation is mid-rung or budget, but what these hotels lack in luxury, they make up for in friendliness and good cheer. Most places are clean and have rooms with attached bathrooms. Do find out about the hot water arrangement though before you check in.

For those who seek complete quiet there is some basic accommodation north of the River Tungabhadra. Alcohol is not permitted in Hampi but you can get a beer just outside town at the bar in Kamalapuram. Food is quite basic at Hampi. Most of the little hotels have restaurants on their roofs. Vegetarian food is easily available and is usually well prepared. Some places also serve standard “western snacks” like sandwiches, cutlets and burgers!

All tourist paraphernalia is available at the Hampi Bazaar from souvenirs to postcards. Handicrafts from Pondicherry’s Aurobindo Ashram can also be picked up here.

Alcohol is not permitted in Hampi but you can get a beer just outside town at the bar in Kamalapuram. Food is quite basic at Hampi. Most of the little hotels have restaurants on their roofs. Vegetarian food is easily available and is usually well prepared. Some places also serve standard "western snacks" like sandwiches, cutlets and burgers!

All tourist paraphernalia is available at the Hampi Bazaar from souvenirs to postcards. Handicrafts from Pondicherry’s Aurobindo Ashram can also be picked up here.

For a complete picture of the Northern circuit also see Badami, Bijapur and Bidar.
For detailed state and visitor information, see Karnataka.